It has been some time since my last post due to the rather
unfortunate interruption suffered every May and June by indignant
students: exams.
The
Benedict School rigorously tutored us in key language skills, with
lessons in grammar, speaking, lexicon, phonetics and translation –
as well as the added cultural topics of cinema and СМИ
(Сре́дства
Ма́ссовой
Информа́ции
–
Media). Taught in groups of 6 – 8 students, we each had fifteen
hours of tuition a week, and one glorious day off (everyone prayed
for a Monday or Friday). Such intense teaching caused a natural and
speedy progression in language for many of the students, as well as
serving vastly to improve our confidence.
As
with educational establishments the world over, that progression was
tested with a few end-of-term exams. Cunningly billed as unimportant
'tests', they somewhat crept up on us, and the majority of the pupils
suddenly found themselves spending every waking minute on the very
handy Memrise – a vocabulary-learning website which allows users to create and
learn vocab lists, as well as those of other users, for numerous
different languages. This website now comes highly recommended by all
students and teachers of the Benedict School, and as we start to head
home to different universities, it's likely to go viral amongst
final-year languages students in the UK.
Exams finally being over, the end of
term has hit us rather unexpectedly. It seems hardly two minutes ago
that we were landing in the dark and the snow, and yet now the White
Nights have arrived in St Petersburg, and we're lucky to see half an
hour of darkness at night. As I wrote in February, Russia is not the
most accessible or cheap country to travel to, and so our last few
days have been filled with fitting in as many of the myriad sights of
the city as possible, once more accompanied by our trusty Lonely
Planet guides.
A key
thing to remember: if you are a student, USE YOUR STUDENT CARD.
English cards will often result in a reduced entry fee to the
majority of sights, but if you produce a Russian student card, there
may well be no entry fee at all, so it's always worth waving it at
entrance desks just in case. We've had instances of ticket-officers
telling us that our cards aren't valid as student cards, but we've
found that with a bit of an argument, they usually look grumpy and
back down, so be prepared to fight your corner!
On
every street of St Petersburg we have become accustomed to seeing
palaces and onion-domed churches, so I will attempt to describe as
many of the things we've seen as I can.
Starting
with museums. Depending on your interest, there is a museum for
everyone in this city. In the first week, for example, we visited the
Kunstkamera, a museum containing exhibitions on native peoples from
around the world...and also a large scientific collection of mutated
foetuses of all varieties. Intriguing, but not for the faint-hearted.
We also discovered the Vodka Museum, where the one room of
information isn't the most interesting, but a shot of vodka chosen
from a list of at least 200, with a plate of 'vodka snacks', goes
down delightfully, especially among students!
However, for those looking for the more
standard educationally informative museums, there is no shortage. Any
flat that once housed a famous poet, novelist, or composer has, more
often than not, been transformed into a mini-museum, pleasing the
many culture-lovers making a pilgrimage to the city that was home to
greats such as Pushkin and Dostoevsky. Museums across St Petersburg
are dedicated to them, and also to such people as Akhmatova, Blok,
Nabokov and Rimsky-Korsakov. For the more general literary
experience, the Institute of Russian Literature (Pushkin House) is
the place to visit. While not over-endowed with pages of useful
information (or indeed any English information), it houses exhibits
from many of Russia's greatest Golden and Silver Age writers such as
Tolstoy and Chekhov, including many hand-written manuscripts.
Fascinating for anyone studying literature at university, or indeed
with a general interest.
|
Burial site of Nicholas II and family |
For those more interested in history
than literature, again there's no better place than St Petersburg to
find a museum to suit, as the city has a rich and fascinating
history. Alongside our studies, we've hardly scratched the surface of
the historical museums; however, a trip to the Peter and Paul
Fortress is a must. There you can walk around the prison interior,
seeing the bare cells and isolation chambers of inmates including
some famous political dissidents such as Gorky, Trotsky and Lenin's
older brother, Alexander. Another 'must-see' feature of the fortress
is the cathedral, in which all Tsars from Peter the Great onwards are
buried. Interestingly and most controversially, Nicholas II, his
wife, and three of his daughters are also interred here, but tourists
cannot get close to the graves. A plaque commemorates all the Romanov
children killed in 1917, but the Russian authorities maintain that it
is Maria, and not Anastasia, whose body has not been properly laid to
rest, along with that of her brother Alexei.
A
key moment of Soviet history, the Siege of Leningrad, is commemorated
in various monuments and museums across St Petersburg. The Museum of
the Defence and Blockade of Leningrad houses uniform and weaponry of
Russian and German soldiers alike, alongside photos and propaganda
posters of the period – and, perhaps most interestingly, donations
from survivors of the siege. A trip to the Monument
to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad is also a poignant moment for
anyone living in a city whose survival is arguably due to those who
clung onto life during the siege. Whilst the bronze statues are
impressive monuments, the main and most moving feature of Victory
Square is a 48-metre high obelisk dedicated to all those who lost
their lives in the war. A starkly Soviet monument, it is a severe and
haunting memorial to one of the most important periods of St
Petersburg's history.
From history to art, our trip to the Russian Museum was very much
appreciated as a condensed history of Russian art. The museum
contains art exclusive to the country, ranging from old Slavonic
church icons to contemporary art. As we discovered, you don't need to
be an art expert to enjoy the museum, nor indeed to find pieces of
personal interest in there – as long as you have a map or guide
book to navigate the floors. Another museum free to students, the
money you save can be well spent on the huge range of copies of
Soviet propaganda posters, which are a stylish addition to any
student's collection!
And that's all for museums...but, wait,
aren't we forgetting something? Ah yes, the Hermitage. World-famous,
the Hermitage occupies the Winter Palace and the Large and Small
Hermitages, and houses the art collections of various Tsars – most
prominently that built up by Catherine the Great, which, it has to be
said, mainly belongs to other countries (not that it seemed to bother
her). The museum is extraordinary in every sense of the word – the
palace itself is stunning, and the world-renowned art and sculpture
displayed there is, in my opinion, beyond compare. There is not room
to exhibit a large proportion of the collection, and it is said that
if you examine each exhibit it could take nine years to see
everything in there. So far, nobody appears to have been brave enough
to try, and four months has certainly not proved long enough. My
advice would be to pick the bits you want to see first and work out
where they are on a map of the museum – it's a clinical approach
but saves a lot of time and leg-work, and ensures you will visit
everything you want to. My personal recommendation is the Rembrandt
room. Once more, it's free to students – and if you plan to take
visitors, you can book in advance (give it three days)
here.
Of course, the last four months hasn't
all been museums – amongst other things, we appear to have visited
more churches than I ever thought could possibly exist in one city.
And of course as students we have had plenty of fun and games,
largely involving ending up on Dumskaya, the road dedicated solely to
clubs and bars. Many require more than one trip there in order to
remember it. Or Metro, the club where Russians do unspeakable
'dancing' to win free pints. But I don't want to taint the image of
the city as one of the world's best centres of culture, so I think
those places are best left for my readers to discover on their own
(at their peril). Take your student card and stick to the Hermitage.